Brunei
About
Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital of Brunei Darussalam, a tiny oil-rich sultanate on the northern coast of Borneo. The city sits along the Brunei River and serves as the administrative, cultural, and commercial heart of a nation covering just 5,765 square kilometres, one of the smallest countries in Southeast Asia. With a population of roughly 100,000 in the capital area and around 450,000 nationwide, Brunei offers a travel experience markedly different from its neighbours.
The city's most iconic landmark is the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful mosques in the Asia-Pacific region. Completed in 1958, it features Italian marble floors, English chandeliers, and a golden dome visible from much of the city centre. Across the Brunei River lies Kampong Ayer, the world's largest water village, where an estimated 30,000 residents live in stilted houses connected by wooden walkways. The settlement has its own schools, mosques, a hospital, and even a fire station, and has been continuously inhabited for over a thousand years.
Brunei is one of only a handful of fully dry nations, meaning alcohol is not sold anywhere in the country. Non-Muslim visitors may import limited quantities of duty-free alcohol for private consumption, but public drinking is prohibited. This is part of the Malay Islamic Monarchy philosophy that shapes daily life. Despite this, the country is remarkably welcoming to visitors, with English widely spoken alongside Malay.
The Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei, holds the record as the world's largest residential palace, boasting 1,788 rooms and 257 bathrooms. While it is only open to the public during the three-day Hari Raya Aidilfitri celebrations, its sheer scale is legendary. Nearby, the Royal Regalia Museum offers free admission and displays the Sultan's coronation regalia, including a gold and silver chariot.
Beyond the capital, Ulu Temburong National Park is Brunei's premier nature destination, accessible only by longboat through pristine mangrove channels. The park's 60-metre canopy walkway provides sweeping views of untouched primary rainforest. Getting around Bandar Seri Begawan is straightforward thanks to affordable water taxis, local buses, and taxis, though the city is compact enough to explore much of the centre on foot.
When to Go
Brunei is hot and humid year-round with two monsoon seasons. The drier months from February to April (between the two monsoons) are the most pleasant for walking the mosques and water village — though rain is possible any time.
Attractions
Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) is a quiet, wealthy capital of dazzling mosques, a 1,000-year-old water village and pristine rainforest — a compact, underrated stop between Kota Kinabalu and the Malaysian states. One or two days covers the city; add a day for Ulu Temburong.
One of Asia's most beautiful mosques — a pure-white Italian-marble dream with a gold dome and a 52-m minaret reflected in an artificial lagoon, with a ceremonial royal barge. Visit at sunset when it lights up; non-Muslims welcome outside prayer times (robes provided).
Free; open daily except prayer times and Thurs mornings.
The world's largest water village — tens of thousands live in stilt houses over the river, with schools, mosques and clinics connected by wooden walkways and water taxis. Take a boat tour to wander the boardwalks and visit a local home; a living slice of old Borneo.
Water taxi ~BND1 ($0.75) each way; tours from ~BND20 ($15).
The Sultan's grand mosque — 29 golden domes, Italian marble and chandeliers, built to honour the 29th sultan. Even more lavish than Omar Ali Saifuddien; open to non-Muslims at limited hours (Fri–Wed). Dress modestly; robes provided.
A tribute to the Sultan — the royal chariots, crowns, gifts from world leaders and the full regalia of coronations and royal occasions. Lavish and fascinating; the best intro to Brunei's monarchy. Free entry; leave bags in the lockers.
Brunei's crown jewel — pristine primary rainforest reached by longboat up the Temburong river, with a canopy walkway high above the treetops, waterfalls and Iban longhouses. The enclaved territory is reached by speedboat then boat; a full day, and worth every minute.
Tours from ~BND120 ($90) including boat, park and lunch.
A jungle park with waterfalls and a waterfall-fed pool right in the city, perfect for a morning walk or jog. In the evening, the Gadong night market is the place for cheap satay, grilled fish and local cakes — Brunei's most lively food scene (alcohol-free).
Transport
Brunei International (BWN) is 10 min from the centre, with flights from Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and more. The city centre is compact; taxis, water taxis and the free city bus cover it.
Brunei is a stop on the Borneo circuit — combine with Kota Kinabalu, Sarawak's Kuching and Malaysian Borneo overland.
Accommodation
BSB has a small range of hotels — fewer than the rest of Borneo, and pricier, but central and comfortable. Stay near the mosque and river for an easy walking base.
Around the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Yayasan mall and the water-village jetty — walk to the main sights. The default base.
The commercial district a few km out — mid-range hotels, the Gadong night market and the big malls. Good value; a short Dart to the centre.
The over-the-top golden palace-hotel on the coast — pools, golf, a cinema and gold-leafed lobbies. The royal splurge experience.
Stay with a family on the water village itself — a unique, authentic Borneo experience. Arrange ahead; from ~BND50 ($37)/night.
Food & Drink
Brunei is strictly alcohol-free, but the food is excellent — Malay, Chinese and Indian staples, plus ambuyat, the national sago dish, eaten at the night market and cafés.
Ambuyat — the starchy sago staple, eaten with a bamboo fork (chandas) and a dozen dips. Satay & grilled fish — the night-market classics. Roti canai & kueh — the Indian-Muslim and Malay snacks.
Vegetarian options exist at the Indian and Chinese stalls (look for “sayur”); note that no alcohol is sold anywhere in Brunei — bring none in (it's restricted at the border too).
Plan Your Trip
Most Western passport holders get 90 days visa-free (on arrival). The currency is the Brunei dollar (BND), pegged 1:1 to the Singapore dollar and interchangeable. English is widely spoken. Brunei is a strict Islamic sultanate — dress modestly and respect local customs; no alcohol is sold or permitted in public.
Ready to plan a route? Pair this with Kota Kinabalu and Kuching for a full Borneo circuit.
Where to Stay
Brunei's most prestigious resort occupies a sprawling beachfront estate in Jerudong, featuring 522 rooms, a championship golf course, multiple swimming pools, private beaches, and lavish interiors adorned with marble and gold leaf. Originally built as a guest palace for visiting dignitaries, it is the country's only true luxury resort.
A five-star hotel connected to The Mall shopping complex in Gadong, The Rizqun offers 168 rooms decorated in traditional Bruneian style with modern amenities. It features an outdoor pool, fitness centre, and two restaurants, and is within walking distance of the Gadong Night Market.
A boutique-style serviced apartment hotel located just metres from the Royal Regalia Museum in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan. Its 44 suites offer kitchenettes and living areas, and the hotel provides complimentary airport transfers and city tours to main attractions.
A well-regarded three-star hotel in the Kiulap area offering complimentary local cuisine breakfast and warm hospitality. Close to the Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque and within easy reach of the city centre, it has earned one of the highest average ratings among Brunei hotels for its personalised service.
Centrally located on Jalan Tasek, the Radisson is a well-established four-star hotel within walking distance of the Royal Regalia Museum and Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. It features two restaurants, Cantik Spa, an outdoor pool, and modern conference facilities popular with business travellers.
A four-star hotel in the Gadong commercial district with 215 rooms, an outdoor pool, and a fitness centre. It is adjacent to The Mall and a short walk from the Gadong Night Market, making it a convenient base for shopping and dining in Brunei's busiest commercial area.
A well-located three-star hotel on Jalan Pemancha, within walking distance of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping complex, and the Kampong Ayer waterfront. It offers clean, functional rooms and a restaurant serving local and international cuisine.
A popular three-star hotel on Jalan Tutong offering 55 tastefully appointed rooms with contemporary decor. Located near Kampong Ayer and the Eco-Corridor, it features an outdoor pool, a restaurant, and complimentary airport shuttle service. One of the highest-reviewed hotels in the city.
A modern budget hotel in the Kiulap commercial area, Higher Hotel offers clean and well-maintained rooms at competitive prices. It is within walking distance of Hua Ho Department Store and the Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, and has earned consistently high guest ratings for cleanliness and service.
An 84-room hotel in the Gadong area within a five-minute drive of the Gadong Night Market and The Mall. It features three restaurants including Traders Cafe, refrigerators and LCD TVs in rooms, and a complimentary 24-hour airport shuttle. A reliable budget-friendly option in a convenient location.
Connected to Times Square Shopping Centre and close to the Hassanal Bolkiah National Stadium, this 112-room hotel offers an outdoor pool, arcade, restaurant, and 24-hour room service. A complimentary airport shuttle runs around the clock, and rooms feature balconies with LCD satellite TVs.
A 102-room hotel situated between the city centre and Gadong, within walking distance of major business, financial, and shopping areas. It offers complimentary internet, parking, airport shuttle, and a fitness centre. A practical mid-point base for exploring both the old town and modern Gadong.
Experiences
Explore the world's largest water village by hiring a water taxi from the Bandar Seri Begawan waterfront. The tour navigates through stilted houses where around 30,000 people live, visiting the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery and a local home to learn about this thousand-year-old settlement.
Visit one of the most beautiful mosques in the Asia-Pacific, built in 1958 with Italian marble floors, English chandeliers, and a 52-metre golden dome. The mosque sits beside a man-made lagoon featuring a replica of a 16th-century royal barge. Non-Muslims may visit outside prayer times.
Journey to Brunei's Green Jewel via speedboat and longboat through pristine mangrove channels. The highlight is a 60-metre canopy walkway offering panoramic views of ancient primary rainforest. Most tours include jungle trekking, swimming in natural pools, and a traditional lunch.
This free museum showcases the coronation regalia of the Sultan of Brunei, including a gold and silver chariot, ceremonial armour, and the royal crown. Interactive exhibits trace Brunei's history from a powerful maritime empire to a modern sultanate. Visitors must remove shoes before entering.
Brunei's largest mosque was built in 1992 to mark the Sultan's 25th jubilee. Its 29 golden domes and striking blue-tiled minaret make it a visual masterpiece. The interior features stunning stained-glass panels, escalators, and air-conditioned prayer halls for 5,000 worshippers.
View the exterior of the world's largest residential palace from the riverbank or during a Brunei River cruise. With 1,788 rooms and 257 bathrooms, the Sultan's palace is a modern marvel. It opens to the public only during the three-day Hari Raya Aidilfitri celebrations, when visitors can shake hands with the Sultan.
Take a boat cruise along the Brunei River through dense mangrove forests to spot proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, monitor lizards, and exotic birds. The cruise typically departs from the Kampong Ayer waterfront and lasts around 90 minutes, with the best wildlife sightings in the late afternoon.
Browse hundreds of food stalls at Brunei's liveliest market, operating nightly from late afternoon. Sample local delicacies including ambuyat (Brunei's national sago dish), satay, grilled fish, kuih (traditional cakes), and fresh tropical fruits at remarkably affordable prices.
Explore Brunei's national museum complex on the banks of the Brunei River at Kota Batu. The Brunei Museum houses an impressive Islamic Art Gallery with artefacts spanning 1,400 years, while the adjacent Malay Technology Museum showcases traditional Bruneian crafts, fishing methods, and architecture.
Visit this traditional open-air market along the Kianggeh River where local vendors sell fresh produce, river fish, traditional snacks, and handmade crafts. It is one of the last authentic wet markets in the city and offers a genuine glimpse into everyday Bruneian life, best visited early morning.
Hike through this forested park in the heart of the city featuring a waterfall, reservoir, and well-maintained trails through lowland rainforest. The park is home to long-tailed macaques and various bird species. The main loop trail takes about an hour and offers a refreshing escape from the tropical heat.
Try Brunei's national dish at a local restaurant such as Aminah Arif or Tamu Selera. Ambuyat is a starchy, glue-like substance made from sago palm, eaten communally by twirling it around a bamboo fork called a chandas and dipping it in flavourful sauces. It is a unique culinary tradition found almost nowhere else.
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Brunei
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